Saturday, March 2, 2019

New Longboard

well the stoke from my return to surfing continues. four surf sessions so far this week, and another today at boomerang beach.
boomerang was on the way back from tuncurry where i picked up a "new to me" 9'1" mal by a shaper in nearby forster. althou the longboard looked and felt right i was cautious  because I'd never heard of the shaper previously.

keen to wet its head,i headed for Boomerang Beach. the headland faces SE so the NE seabreeze was offshore. The swell was up, four feet with some five footers. luckily i spied a break away from the headland that was being a little starved of swell and had an occasional three footer peeling away, lefts and less frequent rights.  the main break was crowded with thirty or so surfers while the lonely beach break further S had just the odd friend. just then i overheard someone expressing an interest in "my break"!   time to own it! 
i got to break out a new legrope (leash wtf?) and waxing up with a fairly new block, living the dream. ah the familiar but forgotten pleasures off jogging over rocky carpark, board under arm. there were three guys on my break. but hey, i had a 9 footer i could sit out wide and pick my waves. anyway with this new longboardi was trying to keep it simple, nothing too strenuous. haha! well at least for the first wave.

my first wave was a little insider, picked off easy, up on my feel quick and she felt good from the start.  i went left, with the current in long flowing few arcs, then i cranked her up a little, i floated her off the lip and came down with great manners. thats when i knew she was a keeper ... better than my now second best Byrne's mal'. Stoked again after all these years!


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