Two surfs this week, at the same break Pogos. Storms last week had shaken up the sandy bottom providing new nreaks to try out. A chsnge is as good as a holiday, hey?
Well the break looled like two peaks 200 yards apart, not really like little triangles. More random with lefts stronger than the rights. Another bonus was the rip-channel through the middle that made the paddle out real easy. So after going left on the S Peak it was easier to jog along the shore and use the channel.
Used my 9'1" and caught small stuff until I dialled in, then got hungry for a few more stylish waves. Great stoke!
I even got a little pit! It was good enough for a thong wearing babe on the shorebreak to glance away from her own image reflected in the water and hive me a nod of recognition. Not that I need that shit anyhow.
SURFEST is getting warmed up at Merewether, so every kook on the hood will be out next week and the parking eill be even more horrendous, but I dont care. I'll be searching hard for holes in the facade and going surfing anyway.
Stay young at heart.
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