Two surfs this week, at the same break Pogos. Storms last week had shaken up the sandy bottom providing new nreaks to try out. A chsnge is as good as a holiday, hey?
Well the break looled like two peaks 200 yards apart, not really like little triangles. More random with lefts stronger than the rights. Another bonus was the rip-channel through the middle that made the paddle out real easy. So after going left on the S Peak it was easier to jog along the shore and use the channel.
Used my 9'1" and caught small stuff until I dialled in, then got hungry for a few more stylish waves. Great stoke!
I even got a little pit! It was good enough for a thong wearing babe on the shorebreak to glance away from her own image reflected in the water and hive me a nod of recognition. Not that I need that shit anyhow.
SURFEST is getting warmed up at Merewether, so every kook on the hood will be out next week and the parking eill be even more horrendous, but I dont care. I'll be searching hard for holes in the facade and going surfing anyway.
Stay young at heart.
Showing posts with label 9'1" mal. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 9'1" mal. Show all posts
Saturday, March 2, 2019
New Longboard
well the stoke from my return to surfing continues. four surf sessions so far this week, and another today at boomerang beach.
boomerang was on the way back from tuncurry where i picked up a "new to me" 9'1" mal by a shaper in nearby forster. althou the longboard looked and felt right i was cautious because I'd never heard of the shaper previously.
keen to wet its head,i headed for Boomerang Beach. the headland faces SE so the NE seabreeze was offshore. The swell was up, four feet with some five footers. luckily i spied a break away from the headland that was being a little starved of swell and had an occasional three footer peeling away, lefts and less frequent rights. the main break was crowded with thirty or so surfers while the lonely beach break further S had just the odd friend. just then i overheard someone expressing an interest in "my break"! time to own it!
i got to break out a new legrope (leash wtf?) and waxing up with a fairly new block, living the dream. ah the familiar but forgotten pleasures off jogging over rocky carpark, board under arm. there were three guys on my break. but hey, i had a 9 footer i could sit out wide and pick my waves. anyway with this new longboardi was trying to keep it simple, nothing too strenuous. haha! well at least for the first wave.
my first wave was a little insider, picked off easy, up on my feel quick and she felt good from the start. i went left, with the current in long flowing few arcs, then i cranked her up a little, i floated her off the lip and came down with great manners. thats when i knew she was a keeper ... better than my now second best Byrne's mal'. Stoked again after all these years!
boomerang was on the way back from tuncurry where i picked up a "new to me" 9'1" mal by a shaper in nearby forster. althou the longboard looked and felt right i was cautious because I'd never heard of the shaper previously.
keen to wet its head,i headed for Boomerang Beach. the headland faces SE so the NE seabreeze was offshore. The swell was up, four feet with some five footers. luckily i spied a break away from the headland that was being a little starved of swell and had an occasional three footer peeling away, lefts and less frequent rights. the main break was crowded with thirty or so surfers while the lonely beach break further S had just the odd friend. just then i overheard someone expressing an interest in "my break"! time to own it!
i got to break out a new legrope (leash wtf?) and waxing up with a fairly new block, living the dream. ah the familiar but forgotten pleasures off jogging over rocky carpark, board under arm. there were three guys on my break. but hey, i had a 9 footer i could sit out wide and pick my waves. anyway with this new longboardi was trying to keep it simple, nothing too strenuous. haha! well at least for the first wave.
my first wave was a little insider, picked off easy, up on my feel quick and she felt good from the start. i went left, with the current in long flowing few arcs, then i cranked her up a little, i floated her off the lip and came down with great manners. thats when i knew she was a keeper ... better than my now second best Byrne's mal'. Stoked again after all these years!
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